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‘Am Israel Chai’: A surprising visit to Georgia’s Jewish Community

Ayelet Mamo Shay visits the Chabad-led Jewish community thriving in Tbilisi and beyond. Amid global antisemitism, Georgia remains a warm haven for Israelis and Jews, with vibrant traditions, Hebrew signage • Full Story

By Ayelet Mamo Shay, Ynetnews.com

Even during challenging times for Israelis, affection for Israel radiates throughout Georgia. Locals speak Hebrew, street signs appear in Hebrew – sometimes even in small villages outside major cities. During a visit to one town, a Georgian man greeted us at the entrance waving an Israeli flag.

As a lifelong Zionist and patriot, I welcomed the gesture. He proceeded to bless Israel and the Jewish people, naming prominent Israeli leaders (and a few staunch enemies who slipped in) while proudly waving the flag.

Despite the palpable love for Israel and sense of security, vigilance is advised. Businessman Itzik Moshe recounts receiving a threat two years ago from an Iranian terror organization seeking to assassinate him; he now employs constant armed guards at his office and home.

Moshe, chairman of the “Israeli House NET” organization, was the first official Israeli representative sent by the Jewish Agency to open six offices in former Soviet states. As an Israeli patriot, he actively promotes Israel abroad, organizing advocacy conferences in Azerbaijan, Sri Lanka, Congo and Georgia.

He asserts the war taught us “there are about a billion antisemites worldwide,” necessitating parliamentary laws against antisemitism globally and mandatory antisemitism education programs in school curricula – initiatives already launched in Georgia and other nations.

An ancient legacy

Georgia was the first Soviet state to open its doors to Israel and world Jewry in 1990, near the end of the totalitarian era. This year marks 35 years since the mass aliyah from the USSR began, bringing one million Jews – including many Georgians – who transformed Israel and the Middle East.

Jews are believed to have arrived in Georgia during the First Temple period, with evidence of presence dating to the 5th-6th centuries BCE. The community significantly solidified during the Second Temple era, developing unique traditions that influenced local history and culture.

Today, Georgia’s Jewish population is relatively small, estimated at 3,000-5,000, mostly concentrated in Tbilisi with active institutions and schools. Numbers have declined recently due to emigration, but the community maintains its traditions.

Approximately 1,500 Israelis currently reside in Georgia, some permanently, others for work, tourism or business. Georgia has become a popular Israeli destination due to its low cost of living, scenic beauty, rich culture and affordable dental/aesthetic treatments.

Shabbat at Chabad

Rabbi Meir Kozlovsky has lived in Tbilisi for 20 years with his wife Tzipi and children, leading the local Chabad House, which serves the community and tourists with prayers, classes, kosher meals and activities. Attending a Friday night dinner with over 200 guests, I noted an armed security guard – a reassuring Israeli presence.

The atmosphere was electric; Rabbi Kozlovsky’s infectious energy had everyone dancing and singing, transcending politics or background. Tzipi managed the event efficiently, later sharing they would only dine with their own children after hosting the community – a testament to their dedication.

Local Georgian staff clearly embraced the atmosphere. One waitress, Maria, sang along to Hebrew Shabbat songs. When asked how she knew the lyrics to “Kol Ha’Olam Kulo,” she smiled: “I’ve worked here five years… Israelis over the years gave me a Jewish name – they call me Miri.”

The October 7 tragedy surfaced in conversation. I met a family whose daughter, a Nova music festival survivor, is bravely coping with trauma. She and her partner, who was also at the party, recently decided to marry, build a family and choose life.

A thriving Jewish school

Rabbi Kozlovsky later gave a tour of the Or Avner Jewish school, joined by Musia, head of the Israeli department, who moved from Israel three years ago with her husband, Rabbi Menachem. The modern building houses students of various ages. The school follows the Georgian national curriculum, supplemented by Jewish heritage studies, Hebrew and Georgian language classes and provides daily lunches.

It features entrepreneurship classes, science and computer labs. Small classes (around 10 students) enable personalized learning. Polite, calm and happy students reflect the school’s popularity; a graduate now teaches there. Notably, about 90% of teachers are non-Jewish and the principal is Georgian, emphasizing professionalism.

The school currently has 160 students, admitting only Jewish children recognized by Jewish law (requiring documentation of a Jewish mother). Students include Georgian-born children and Israelis who moved for work both before and after October 7. A separate kindergarten nearby has 60 children, with a new building under construction.

Adjacent to the Jewish school stands a local public school. The Georgian government, recognizing this unique proximity, named the street “Georgian-Jewish Friendship Avenue” – a significant gesture reflecting official goodwill towards Jews and Israel.

Tbilisi has four active synagogues: three in the Old City (Beit Rachel, the Great Synagogue and Chabad on Anton Catholicos Street) and one at the Genesis Kosher Hotel in Ortachala. The Great Sephardic Synagogue is the largest and among Georgia’s oldest.

Five kosher restaurants operate: La Casa, King David, Shalom Aleichem, Mendis and Hummus Jerusalem. A local shochet (butcher working according to Jewish slaughter law) slaughters poultry and minimal beef; most kosher beef is imported from Argentina. The community lacks a mohel, requiring one to be flown from Israel for ritual circumcisions – as Musia did twice for her sons born in Georgia.

Tbilisi has only one mikveh, forcing Jewish women from Batumi to travel six hours monthly. The city has three Jewish cemeteries; only one is active and nearly full. The government recently granted an additional plot but Rabbi Kozlovsky says another will soon be needed as space dwindles faster than expected.